What makes a fabric suitable for activewear?

Activewear fabric has to do several things at once. It needs to stretch in every direction without resistance, then spring back to its original shape immediately. It needs to manage moisture — either wicking sweat away from the skin and drying quickly, or in colder conditions, holding enough warmth while still breathing. It needs to hold its structure and opacity under tension, so leggings stay squat-proof and sports bras stay supportive.

The fibers that deliver this reliably are nylon and polyester, both blended with spandex (also called elastane or Lycra). The spandex content provides the stretch and recovery. The nylon or polyester base provides the structure, durability, and surface quality. Most performance activewear fabric is 80–92% nylon or polyester and 8–20% spandex.

Cotton has no place in performance activewear. It absorbs moisture and holds it against the skin, becomes heavy when wet, and loses its shape quickly. Cotton-spandex blends work for casual athleisure and low-intensity wear, but for any sustained physical activity, a fully synthetic nylon or polyester spandex is the right choice.

Nylon spandex vs polyester spandex for activewear

This is the most important material decision for most activewear projects. Both are used widely across the industry and both perform well — the choice comes down to what the garment will be used for and what feel you're after.

Nylon spandex is softer and has a naturally smoother, silkier feel against the skin. It wicks moisture effectively and is the fabric behind most premium yoga leggings and high-end activewear lines. At the same weight and spandex content, nylon generally has slightly more stretch and a more comfortable hand feel than polyester. If softness and feel are the priority — yoga leggings, sports bras, close-fitting training tops — nylon spandex is the better fabric.

Polyester spandex is more resistant to abrasion, holds colour under repeated UV exposure better than nylon, and is significantly better for sublimation printing. It's the standard fabric for team uniforms, performance jerseys, and any activewear where vivid printed graphics are the goal. It's also usually less expensive per yard than nylon at comparable weights. For printed activewear, golf wear, and team training apparel, polyester spandex is the practical choice.

Read the full comparison in the nylon spandex fabric guide.

---

Choosing the right weight (GSM) for activewear

GSM — grams per square meter — is the weight and density of the fabric. In activewear, GSM directly affects opacity, compression, structure, and how the garment feels in motion. A 160 GSM fabric and a 220 GSM fabric in the same nylon spandex blend will behave completely differently in a finished garment.

The right GSM depends on the garment type. Here's how to think about it:

The most common mistake in activewear sewing is choosing a fabric that's too light. A 160 GSM legging fabric will be sheer when stretched and won't hold its shape through a workout. For leggings that need to be genuinely squat-proof and opaque, 200 GSM is the floor, and 210–225 GSM is the sweet spot for most people. See the full fabric weight guide for a complete breakdown.

---

Fabric by garment type

Different activewear garments have different performance priorities. Here's what each one actually needs from the fabric.

Leggings

Leggings are the most demanding activewear garment in terms of fabric requirements. They need to be completely opaque at full stretch, hold their shape after repeated wears and washes, move without restriction in every direction, and recover immediately after stretching. The waistband area needs to be stable enough to stay up without rolling.

For gym leggings and training tights, 200–230 GSM nylon spandex is the right range. This weight is opaque, provides light-to-moderate compression, and holds structure through squats, lunges, and high-intensity movement. For yoga leggings where comfort and softness take priority over compression, 170–200 GSM gives you more freedom of movement with a lighter feel. Brushed nylon spandex — which has a fleece-like inner surface — is the fabric used in "buttery soft" premium leggings. It's warmer and noticeably softer than regular tricot, though it takes slightly more care to sew cleanly.

Sports bras

Sports bra fabric needs to compress without cutting, stay smooth under the arms where chafing is a risk, and recover immediately after stretching without going baggy. For low-impact bras and shelf bras inside tank tops, 170–200 GSM nylon spandex works well. For medium and high-impact support bras, 200–240 GSM provides better structure and compression. Power mesh — a lightweight nylon spandex open knit — is commonly used for the back panels and ventilation zones of sports bras, where breathability matters more than compression.

Browse the solid nylon spandex collection for sports bra fabric options in a full range of weights and colours.

Running apparel

Running fabric prioritises two things above everything else: moisture management and light weight. A heavy, slow-drying fabric becomes uncomfortable quickly in sustained cardio. For running tights and shorts, 160–190 GSM polyester or nylon spandex strikes the right balance — light enough to not feel restrictive but dense enough to hold its shape. For running tops and vests, lighter fabrics in the 140–160 GSM range with strong moisture-wicking properties are ideal. Polyester spandex has a slight edge over nylon for running tops because its moisture-wicking performance holds up better under high-sweat conditions.

Gym wear and training shorts

Training shorts and gym wear need durability above all — these are garments that get worn frequently, washed frequently, and subjected to high mechanical stress in use. A 200–220 GSM polyester or nylon spandex gives you the durability and opacity for shorts and gym tops that hold up over hundreds of wears. For printed gym wear and branded training apparel, polyester spandex is the clear choice because it accepts sublimation printing cleanly without compromising the fabric's stretch or recovery. Browse the sublimation spandex tricot collection for print-ready activewear fabric.

Yoga and Pilates apparel

Yoga apparel prioritises feel over compression. The fabric should move completely freely with the body, feel soft against the skin during floor work, and stay comfortable through extended wear. Nylon spandex at 170–200 GSM is the standard, with brushed nylon spandex being the premium option for anyone who wants that second-skin softness that high-end yoga brands are known for. Matte finishes are generally preferred for yoga wear — shiny fabrics can feel out of place in studio settings and show every wrinkle more readily. Browse the athleisure fabric collection for yoga-appropriate weights and finishes.

Golf apparel

Golf fabric has a different set of requirements from most activewear. It needs to look polished and structured — closer to casualwear than gym wear — while still allowing the range of motion needed for a full swing. Moisture management matters for outdoor wear in warm conditions. A mid-weight polyester spandex at 180–210 GSM with a smooth finish delivers the right combination of structure, stretch, and breathability for golf shirts, shorts, and skirts. Browse the golf fabric collection for fabric suited to performance golf apparel.

Compression wear

Compression garments — tights, shorts, sleeves, recovery wear — need a higher spandex content than standard activewear to deliver meaningful compression. Fabrics with 20–30% spandex content at 220–260 GSM apply graduated or uniform pressure that supports muscles during activity and aids recovery afterward. The nylon or polyester base needs to be tight-knit enough to maintain compression force without stretching out over repeated wear. See the nylon spandex fabric guide for detail on high-spandex blends suited to compression applications.

---

GSM quick reference by garment

---

Moisture-wicking fabric explained

Moisture-wicking is one of the most used terms in activewear and one of the least explained. It doesn't mean the fabric absorbs sweat — it means the opposite. A wicking fabric pulls moisture away from the skin surface and moves it to the outer surface of the fabric where it can evaporate quickly.

Both nylon and polyester spandex are hydrophobic — they don't absorb water. This is what gives them their wicking properties. Sweat sits on the fiber surface rather than soaking in, and capillary action through the knit structure moves it to the outer face of the fabric. The tight knit structure of performance activewear fabric helps accelerate this process.

The practical difference between nylon and polyester in moisture management is small in most activewear applications. Polyester has a slight edge in very high-sweat conditions — the fiber structure moves moisture marginally faster. For most yoga, gym, and casual activewear use, both perform equivalently well.

What significantly reduces wicking performance is fabric softener. Softener leaves a coating on the fibers that fills the capillary pathways through the knit. Never use fabric softener on activewear. It reduces moisture management, causes fabrics to smell faster, and shortens the life of the spandex content.

---

Sewing activewear fabric

Activewear sewing has the same core requirements as any stretch fabric — ballpoint needle, stretch stitch, and never straight-stitching construction seams. A few things are worth knowing specifically for activewear.

Use a ballpoint or stretch needle (size 75/11 or 80/12 for most weights, 90/14 for heavier compression fabrics). A sharp needle perforates the knit fibers and causes runs.

Use a stretch stitch or narrow zigzag for all seams — approximately 1mm wide, 2.5mm long. On a serger, a 4-thread overlock is the standard construction stitch. A straight stitch will pop the first time the garment is worn and stretched.

Use a walking foot for heavier fabrics. At 220 GSM and above, nylon and polyester spandex can feed unevenly through standard presser feet, especially over multiple layers. A walking foot keeps the layers moving together and prevents puckering.

Stabilise waistbands. The waistband is the area under the most sustained tension in leggings. Use clear elastic or fold-over elastic sewn into the waistband to prevent the fabric from stretching out and rolling down over time.

For a full guide to needles, stitches, presser feet, and seam finishing, see how to sew stretch fabric.

---

Caring for activewear fabric

Activewear has a short list of rules that, if followed, will extend the life of the fabric significantly. The main enemy is heat — in the washing machine, in the dryer, and in storage.

Wash cold on a gentle cycle. Hot water degrades spandex fibers over time, reducing the fabric's stretch and recovery. Cold water washes are effective at cleaning activewear and preserve the elastic content.

Never use fabric softener. It reduces moisture-wicking performance and shortens the life of the spandex. A small amount of white vinegar in the rinse cycle is effective at removing odour and residue without damaging the fibers.

Air dry or tumble dry on low. High heat in a tumble dryer is the fastest way to destroy the elasticity in activewear. Air drying flat is best. If you use a dryer, use the lowest heat setting and remove the garment while still slightly damp.

Turn garments inside out before washing. This reduces abrasion on the outer surface and protects printed graphics from fading.

See the full fabric care guide for washing and storage guidance across all stretch fabric types.

---

Frequently asked questions