4 Things to Check Before You Buy (Weight, Stretch %, Width)
Before purchasing spandex fabric by the yard, consider these four crucial aspects to ensure it will work for your design. For a broader foundation on stretch fabric properties before diving in, explore our stretch fabric types page or browse our full fabric guides hub.
Weight (GSM): Fabric weight, often given in GSM (grams per square meter), tells you how thick or dense the material is. A higher GSM means a heavier, thicker and more opaque spandex that offers greater support, while a lower GSM indicates a lighter, more breathable fabric. For example, a 300 GSM stretch knit will feel much sturdier and less sheer than a 150 GSM one – this can impact the garment's opacity and compression level. Choose the weight based on your project. Our fabric weight guide provides a full breakdown of how GSM affects opacity, compression, breathability, and durability across all common spandex-blend constructions.
Stretch Percentage & Direction: Not all "stretch" fabrics stretch the same amount. Check the stretch percentage (often listed by retailers) and whether the fabric is 2-way or 4-way stretch. A "50% stretch" fabric can extend 50% beyond its original length – for instance, a 10 cm swatch stretches to 15 cm. 4-way stretch means it extends in both width and length, whereas 2-way (or one-way) stretch only extends in one direction. High stretch percentages (50–100% or more) with 4-way elasticity are ideal for form-fitting activewear and swimwear. Also consider stretch recovery – quality spandex snaps back to shape without staying loose or baggy. Our stretch fabric types page covers the step-by-step stretch and recovery testing methodology in detail, including how to calculate stretch percentage from a home swatch test.
Width of Fabric: Spandex fabric is typically knit in wide bolts, usually around 58–60 inches (147–152 cm) wide. This generous width means you often need fewer yards compared to narrow fabrics. Still, check the exact width provided by the retailer and make sure your pattern pieces will fit. If you have very large pieces or a one-directional print, you might need extra yardage even with a wide fabric. Always account for the fabric width in your yardage calculations (most stretch patterns assume a wide fabric, but double-check to avoid shortage).
Material Composition (Fiber Content & Spandex %): Look at what fibers the spandex is blended with and the percentage of spandex (elastane) in the fabric. Common blends are nylon/spandex or polyester/spandex, each with pros and cons. Nylon-spandex fabrics tend to be smooth, soft, and durable (with good abrasion resistance and natural moisture-wicking), while polyester-spandex feels slightly stiffer and can run warmer (less breathable), but often offers better chlorine/UV resistance and lower cost. Also note the spandex content: a higher elastane percentage (e.g. 15–20% spandex) gives the fabric greater stretch and excellent recovery, whereas a blend with only 3–5% spandex will have more limited stretch (good for comfort-fit garments). For high-performance athletic wear or swimwear, you'll usually want a high spandex ratio in a nylon or polyester base; for everyday wear, cotton-spandex or rayon-spandex jerseys with lower spandex can offer soft comfort.
Understanding GSM: The Difference Between Swimwear and Legging Weight
GSM stands for grams per square meter, essentially how much one square meter of the fabric weighs. This metric directly relates to how the fabric feels and performs – it influences thickness, support/compression, and coverage. Understanding GSM is especially important when comparing spandex fabrics for different applications like leggings vs. swimwear. Our fabric weight guide provides a full breakdown of how GSM affects opacity, compression, breathability, and durability across all common spandex-blend constructions.
Leggings Weight: Spandex fabrics for leggings generally fall in the light to mid-weight range, but the ideal GSM depends on the style of legging. For fashion or yoga leggings where maximum flexibility and a "second-skin" feel are desired, a fabric around 180–220 GSM works well – this is light enough for comfort but still offers squat-proof opacity around the low 200s GSM. Performance or compression leggings (for running, gym, etc.) often use a heavier knit in the 220–280 GSM range to ensure no show-through, higher durability, and a bit of muscle support/compression. If you stretch a lighter fabric over a curve and notice it becomes sheer, that's a sign you might need a higher GSM for that garment. Our activewear fabric guide covers compression performance benchmarks and fabric weight recommendations across all common legging and activewear constructions.
Swimwear Weight: In contrast to leggings, swimwear fabrics are usually on the heavier end of the spandex spectrum. Swimwear material needs to remain opaque and supportive even when wet, so fabrics are often 250–320 GSM. Many swimsuit textiles are warp-knit tricot blends (often ~80% nylon, 20% spandex) around 200–250 GSM and are sometimes paired with a lining layer. Higher-end competitive swimwear may go up to 280–300 GSM in a very tightly-knit fabric to provide compression and streamline the body. Our swimwear fabric guide covers how to evaluate and source all common swimwear fabric constructions by GSM, fiber content, and chlorine resistance.
Always match the fabric weight to the garment's needs: if you're sewing something like yoga pants or a leotard, a mid-weight fabric (~200 GSM) is often ideal, but for a swimsuit or sports bra, lean towards a heavier knit for full support and opacity.
Matte vs. Shiny: Choosing the Right Finish
Spandex fabrics come in different finishes or surface looks. The two main appearances are matte (non-reflective) and shiny (glossy or "wet-look"). Our fabric finishes guide covers how surface treatments and finishes are applied to spandex fabrics and how to evaluate their durability and appearance across different performance applications.
Matte Spandex: Matte spandex has a smooth, non-reflective surface with no gloss. Many designers opt for matte fabrics when they want a clean, timeless aesthetic – yoga wear or athletic uniforms often use matte spandex that photographs well without glare. Matte material tends to be very forgiving: it diffuses light, which can help conceal small lumps or bumps, and doesn't highlight seams or imperfections the way shiny fabric can. Choose a matte finish if you want a subtle, elegant look or extra comfort; it's great for everyday leggings, sportswear, or any design where a flashy shine isn't desired.
Shiny Spandex (Wet-Look): Shiny spandex has a high-gloss, reflective finish often described as "wet look" or "liquid" due to its lustrous sheen. Shiny spandex is fantastic for bold, attention-grabbing outfits: dance costumes, superhero or cosplay suits, or trendy metallic leggings. However, heavily coated glossy spandex tends to be slightly less breathable, as the coating can trap heat. Shiny spandex is best when you want maximum visual impact and don't mind sacrificing a bit of subtlety and airflow. You can even mix finishes – for instance, using mostly matte fabric with shiny accents or panels to highlight certain areas.
For custom-printed designs on spandex, our sublimation page covers how sublimation printing works on polyester-spandex fabrics, and our sublimation paper and sublimation transfer paper pages cover the complete printing workflow.
Where to Buy Quality Spandex Fabric Online
When you're ready to buy spandex fabric online, it's important to choose a reputable fabric retailer so you get authentic, high-quality material and the specs you expect.
Specialty Spandex Retailers: Dedicated spandex fabric shops can be a goldmine for variety. They often stock everything from solid tricot and printed activewear knits to holographic or metallic spandex, all in one place. The benefit of buying from specialty shops is that they understand the needs of activewear/swimwear designers – you'll find the specific material you need (like a certain nylon-spandex tricot or power mesh) rather than sifting through a broad catalog. Our how to choose fabric guide covers what to evaluate when a physical swatch arrives, including stretch testing, opacity testing, and hand feel assessment.
Activewear and Dance Fabric Suppliers: If you're looking for something specific like eco-friendly recycled spandex or performance moisture-wicking knits, seek out suppliers that cater to the activewear market. Our activewear fabric guide and dancewear fabric guide cover curated fabric recommendations for all common activewear and dancewear applications.
General Fabric Retailers: Major online fabric stores also have sections for spandex or stretch knits. Just be sure to read the item description carefully – look for details on GSM, stretch %, and the fiber blend. Reputable retailers will list this info (for example, many sites will specify something like "80% Nylon/20% Spandex, 60% 4-way stretch, 200 GSM"). If details are missing, don't hesitate to contact customer service or order a swatch. Our expert help and advice page and FAQ are always available if you have questions about specific fabric specifications.
Pro Tip: Whenever possible, order swatches or sample cards of spandex fabrics before buying large yardage. Stretch fabric can be hard to judge from photos alone – a swatch lets you feel the thickness, stretch it in hand, and check the color/print in real life. Taking the time to test a swatch can save you from buying yards of a fabric that isn't quite right for your project.
For Bulk Buyers: If you are a brand or manufacturer looking to buy spandex in bulk, consider reaching out directly to textile wholesalers or mills. They often have higher minimum order requirements (e.g. a full roll), but the cost per yard will be lower for large orders. Quality control is key when sourcing large quantities for production.
In summary, choosing the right spandex fabric by the yard comes down to understanding your material specs and shopping smart. Pay attention to weight (GSM) for the appropriate thickness and support, verify the stretch percentage and whether it's 4-way, decide on the finish that suits your design (matte for subtlety or shiny for impact), and buy from a trusted source that clearly describes the fabric.
Ready to get started? Use our fabric weight guide and stretch fabric types page to evaluate technical specifications, our nylon-spandex fabric guide and cotton-spandex fabric guide for fiber-type specific recommendations, and our activewear fabric guide and swimwear fabric guide for end-use specific guidance. Our spandex care guide and fabric care guide keep every finished garment performing at its best. Sign up for SpandexByYard Rewards to earn points on every purchase – happy fabric hunting and good luck with your creative projects!
